For those of you who didn't know, Peru contains some of the highest cities in the world. At present, I am 3,400m (or 11,150ft) in the sky. Sometimes, while driving through the mountains it seems like I could actually touch the clouds. This is quite ironic for me considering just a week before arriving here, I was at the lowest place on earth (The Dead Sea).
In all my preparation for Cusco, I was continually warned about the altitude. I must admit I was a little worried, but after getting here I felt fine because I followed some important steps.
MY GUIDE TO COMBATING ALTITUDE SICKNESS
1. Rest! Do not do anything strenuous the first few days. I unpacked, ate, and relaxed my entire first day.
2. Drink Coca Tea! It can be either the coca leaves or a tea bag, and I promise it does not taste as bad as everyone makes it seem (but don't drink too much). Remember that coca leaves are the raw material that is extracted for cocaine. If you drink too much your heart can start racing which is not good in a place where it is already working over time.
3. Don't exercise your first week here! You can skip a few leg days, I promise it will be for the better in the long run.
4. Say no to heavy foods! Your stomach will be very upset if you eat grease, beans, cheese, and other heavy foods (especially at night!).
THE ALTITUDE STRIKES BACK!
Despite trying and succeeding at avoiding any altitude issues my first week here, week two got a little tricky. It all started on Saturday when I went on an hour and a half walk from Plaza De Armas to my home (we got a little lost on the way back). That walk was the first extended physical activity I had done since arriving, and I paid for it. A few days later, I found walking to feel like sprinting. I became extremely winded (even when just sitting down), my heart was racing to the point I thought it would just stop working, and no matter how hard I tried, I could not breath. After two days of this, I decided to take a break. I got an oxygen mask, retreated to my bed, and took a day or two for myself. This proved very beneficial because soon I was back in action. Not being able to breath was scary, and if it happens to you in high altitude, you should seek medical care as it can be life threatening.
SO YOU THINK YOU ARE FIT?
Shortly after my altitude sickness scare, I began my workout routine. I quickly realized that exercising at high altitude is an experience like none other for two very specific reasons.
1. Your VO2 Max is awful. Training at the level you could in your low altitude home is simply impossible. There is less oxygen and you can't exert yourself as hard. I found myself winded during a simple warm-up. Here, I can only exercise for a maximum for 20-30 minutes before I start feeling very dizzy and unable to breathe. If you plan to exercise at high altitude, you have to lower your expectations of yourself.
2. Recovery is a beast. If you exercise frequently, you have probably heard of DOMS (Delayed Onset Muscle Soreness). And even if you don't exercise frequently, you have probably experienced DOMS. It's the feeling 24 hours after a workout when your muscles are sore and your body is on fire. If you happened to complete said workout at high altitude, prepare for it to be 1000x worse.
After a simple workout laden with lunges, squats, and things of the like, I felt okay. The next day, I could hardly get out of bed. I'd never felt such pain in my legs. Going down the stairs took forever while I clutched the railing (or else I would fall) and winced down each step. "Wow, I worked really hard", I thought to myself. "This is good pain." Until it continued into the next day, and the day after that, and they day after that. Here 3400m in the sky, workout recovery simply takes longer. There's nothing you can do but grit through the pain and keep moving.
The adjustment to altitude has been difficult, but it's only preparing me for when I climb higher on my upcoming travels to Bolivia (3700m). For now, I'm taking it slow and enjoying all that Cusco has to offer. I'll be back soon with a blog post on my experience with Cusqueño nightlife .
Thanks for Reading!
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